Brazeau Loop Hiking Guide for 2023

JUMP TO:  PROS &  CONS  /  ITINERARIES  /  WHEN TO GO  / CAMPSITES / NAVIGATION / WATER / WILDLIFE /  TRAILHEAD SERVICES / WHAT TO PACK

Author: Steve Edgerton / Photos: Allison Edgerton

The Brazeau Loop is a majestic “grand tour” of the southern Jasper National Park in the Canadian Rockies. The trail vaults over three different mountain passes, visits one of the largest backcountry lakes in Canada, and wanders glacier carved, wildflower-filled alpine meadows.

This trip offers endless, awe-inspiring panoramas, to the point of near exhaustion. The remoteness of the trail means it is less-trafficked than other bucket-list backpacking trips in Canada’s Mountain National Parks. It is also prime habitat for mountain caribou, moose, and grizzly bear populations.

The trail includes climbing at least one mountain pass nearly every day. It is a challenging, but immensely rewarding adventure. For those looking for an authentic, unforgettable backcountry trip in the Rockies, the Brazeau Loop is not to be missed.

PROS

• Endless views of towering, glaciated peaks in the Brazeau Range

• Quieter, more remote than other popular backcountry trips in the Rockies

• Scenic and private campsites

CONS

• Spacing of campsites makes itineraries other than 5 days awkward

• Wet and muddy: countless creek crossings, especially in early summer

• Campsites are typically booked months in advance during peak season

ITINERARIES

The Brazeau Loop is more like a lollipop than a true circuit. It begins and ends on the same 9 miles (14 km) of trail, with a loop through the magnificent passes of the Brazeau Range in the middle. It typically takes five days to complete the trip, though swift travellers can do it in three.

The loop can be completed in either direction, but the major climbs are more gradual on the counterclockwise route, making it the more popular option.

There is also an abridged, out-and-back variation of the hike for those short on time or who could not secure campsite permits needed for the entire trail. Instead of completing the full loop it is possible to follow the trail to Jonas Cutoff, explore Poboktan Pass as a short side trip, and head back the same way. This variation is about 15.5 miles (25 km) shorter than the full Brazeau Loop. You will avoid some of the less scenic portions of the trail, but you will also miss out on visiting the epic Brazeau Lake.

Either option will begin and end at the Nigel Pass trailhead, keeping the transportation planning straightforward.

The Brazeau Loop Trail

• LENGTH: 50 miles / 81 km

• DURATION: 3-5 days

• TYPE: Circuit

• START: Nigel Pass Trailhead

• FINISH: Nigel Pass Trailhead

• BEST TIME: Late July to mid-September

The Brazeau Loop begins and ends at the Nigel Pass trailhead off Highway 93 (the Icefields Parkway). The trail ascends 4 miles (7 km) along Nigel Creek up to Nigel Pass, passing the boundary between Banff and Jasper National Parks before descending into the Brazeau River Valley.

Most hikers spend their first day on the trail traveling 8.7 miles (14 km) to Four Point Campground, which offers scenic, forested sites right next to the Brazeau River. If you have a late start or if securing a permit for Four Point is a challenge, staying at Boulder Creek is another option for the first night.

The loop of the trail begins at Four Point Campground. Heading counterclockwise allows for a more gradual ascent up to the Jonas Shoulder—the trail’s highpoint—and is the route we cover here.

To go counterclockwise, continue straight at the Jonas Shoulder junction just beyond Four Point towards Brazeau Lake. Get ready for a long but relatively flat day of hiking through sun-dappled lodgepole pine forests alongside the ferocious Brazeau River.

After 9.6 miles (15.5 km) of hiking, you will arrive at the Brazeau River campground. We recommend pushing on another 1.9 miles (3 km) to spend your second night at the Brazeau Lake campground. Right on the shores of one of Canada’s largest backcountry lakes, this campsite is one of the best in all of Jasper. Cooking dinner and watching the sunset behind Marble Mountain from the rocky shores of the lake is a highlight of the trip.

Departing Brazeau Lake, you will backtrack about 200 meters to pick up the main trail, crossing a bridge over the Brazeau River to the western side of the lake. Hike for 5.5 miles (8.9 km) to reach John-John campground. Its awkward location along the trail means that it is probably the least used campground on the loop, but the site itself is nice enough. Nestled in mossy forest and surrounded by jagged peaks, it is still a worthy stop if you are looking to extend your time out on the Brazeau Loop.

After John-John, the trail ascends into Poboktan Pass. With its grassy alpine meadows and expansive panoramic views, Poboktan Pass is endlessly beautiful, and the miles begin to float by unnoticed.

After 10.2 miles (16.4 km) of hiking from Brazeau Lake, you will arrive at Jonas Cutoff. Situated between Poboktan Pass and Jonas Pass, the Jonas Cutoff campground is exposed to inclement weather, but the towering peaks and wild rush of the Poboktan Creek make it worthwhile.

The next day begins with the longest climb of the trail up to the Jonas Shoulder. Cresting the shoulder, awe-inspiring views of Jonas Pass and the iconic Sunwapta Peak will greet you. After a steep descent, the trail winds gradually downhill through alpine meadows, back to the Jonas Shoulder Junction near Four Point. Most hikers spend another night at Four Point before exiting back over Nigel Pass and to the trailhead on the fifth day.

WHEN TO GO

The hiking season in the Canadian Rockies is woefully short, and the Brazeau Loop is no exception. Snow can persist in the trail’s alpine passes well into late July, and often returns as early as late September.

That leaves a two-month window when the Brazeau Loop is in good condition for hiking. Even during summer, you should be prepared for the possibility of snow and whiteout conditions in the alpine. It is possible to complete the trail in late June or early July, but you should be prepared with micro spikes or crampons. Snowpack on the Jonas Shoulder and at Nigel Pass will be a near certainty and you will need the necessary equipment and skills to traverse them safely.

If you can swing it, early September may be the best time to take on the Brazeau Loop. Summer crowds and the mosquitoes will have thinned out, the trail will be mostly dry, and the days will still be relatively long. Just be ready for the possibility of snow and below freezing nights in your tent!

CAMPSITES

There are seven designated campsites along the Brazeau Loop. Because of the spacing between sites, Four Point, Brazeau Lake, and Jonas Cutoff are by far the most frequented. They also happen to be the most picturesque. Brazeau Lake in particular is not to be missed.

However, all the campsites are lovely. They are forested with good spacing between tent pads, and feature either bear lockers or bear hangs, picnic tables, and pit toilets. Campsite choice really comes down to permit availability and your daily mileage, but it is hard to make a wrong choice.

Traveling the loop counterclockwise, the campsites and distances between them are:

• Nigel Pass trailhead to Boulder Creek: 10.7 km

• Boulder Creek to Four Point: 3.1 km

• Four Point to Brazeau River: 15.5 km

• Brazeau River to Brazeau Lake: 3.0 km

• Brazeau Lake to John-John: 8.9 km

• John-John to Jonas Cutoff: 7.5 km

• Jonas Cutoff back to Four Point: 18.9 km

You must use the Parks Canada Online Reservation Service to secure permits for each night on the trail and the specific campsite you will be staying at. No ‘free’ or ‘random’ camping is allowed—you must have the appropriate permits and stay at these designated sites.

The limited number of tent pads at each campground means that permits go quick. Weekends in peak summer are often fully booked within minutes of Jasper backcountry reservations opening in February, so be sure to plan your trip well in advance!

NAVIGATION

MAPS: National Geographic publishes excellent 1:100,000 scale topographic maps of the region. The Brazeau Loop is split across two maps. You’ll need the Banff North map for the Nigel Pass portion and the Jasper South map for the rest of the trail.

Try to purchase the maps ahead of time and avoid any potential hassle, but they are typically easy to find at national park information offices and outdoor stores in Banff and Jasper.

WATER

WATER ACCESS: We quickly lost track of the number of creek crossings on the Brazeau. Your feet will get wet, but you will never worry about your next opportunity to access water. All seven campsites are also located right beside a stream or river.

WATER TREATMENT: We decided to bring our Katadyn BeFree water filter, but with so many excellent, crystal clear water sources, filtration is not really required. You could go with something like the SteriPEN Adventurer Opti for another easy and lightweight treatment option.

WILDLIFE

BEAR SAFETY: The Brazeau Loop is prime habitat for both grizzly and black bears. They use the valley bottoms for shelter, transportation, and food. You will likely see bear scat and other signs of bear activity. Making noise, especially when approaching rushing water, is the easiest way to avoid an encounter. Carry bear spray and know how to use it.

All the campsites are equipped with bear lockers or bear hangs. Use them and do not store any food or scented items (toothpaste, lip balm, etc.) in your tent. Keep your cooking and food preparation concentrated to the picnic tables at each campsite.

You can avoid almost all potential bear encounters just by following these simple precautionary measures.

RUT SEASON: Elk and moose are in rut in September and October, and males can be dangerous if aggravated. Keep a generous distance and do not surprise any lone elk or moose you may encounter—they can become surprisingly aggressive. Even when not in rut, it is a good idea to treat moose with a healthy dose of caution.

OTHER WILDLIFE: Jasper National Park is renowned for its herds of mountain caribou. They are sadly in decline, but the Jonas and Poboktan Passes remain prime caribou habitat—sightings of roaming herds are possible. Ptarmigans, porcupines, deer, marmots, and many bird species also call the Brazeau Range home.

TRAILHEAD SERVICES

Nigel Pass Trailhead

There are no services at the Nigel Pass trailhead. It is just a small, gravel parking lot off the Icefields Parkway. Saskatchewan River Crossing, 23 miles (37 km) to the south, has a general store, the nearest option for grabbing any last-minute supplies. The nearest towns are Jasper, 72 miles (116 km) to the north, and Banff, 107 miles (173 km) to the south.

Saskatchewan River Crossing

This little outpost at the junction of the Icefields Parkway and the David Thompson Highway is just 30 minutes south of the Nigel Pass trailhead. With only a hotel, a few restaurants, and a general store, don’t count on stocking up on supplies here. But it can be a good place to stay to ensure an early, stress-free start for your trip.

Jasper

Jasper is a vibrant mountain town at the north end of Jasper National Park. It is about a 90-minute drive from the town to Nigel Pass trailhead. With supermarkets and a plethora of outdoor stores, Jasper makes for a good homebase for exploring the national park. You will have no problem finding everything you need to take on the Brazeau Loop.

Banff

Most international visitors to Jasper National Park begin their journey from the Calgary International Airport, which means approaching the park from the south and traveling through Banff. This iconic mountain town is well worth a visit. Filled with restaurants, boutique shops, and outdoor retailers, Banff is also surrounded by some of the most inspiring hikes in the world.

It is a great spot to finish gearing up for the Brazeau Loop before making the two and a half hour drive up the scenic Icefields Parkway to the Nigel Pass trailhead.

WHAT TO PACK

The far reaches of the Brazeau Loop are a true wilderness. It is common to hike an entire day without seeing a soul, as foot traffic is limited to a smattering of other backpackers. An injury, even just a sprained ankle, can leave you in serious trouble and far from help.

We highly recommend you bring a satellite communicator, like the Garmin InReach Mini. Also review the contents of your first aid kit to be fully prepared in the unfortunate case of a medical emergency on this remote trail.

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