Best Bouldering Shoes of 2023

JUMP TO: EVOLV SHAMAN / LA SPORTIVA SOLUTION / LA SPORTIVA MIURA VS / FIVE TEN HIANGLE / BUTORA ACRO / LA SPORTIVA SKWAMA / SCARPA VAPOR V / MAD ROCK FLASH / BUYING ADVICE

Author: Tim Severino

The Short Version

The Long Version

When your chosen sport or hobby requires only one essential piece of equipment – you want to make sure that is the best possible piece of equipment for the task.

And bouldering is one such sport.

Gone are the ropes, harness, and jingle jangle of quick draws – not to mention all the other equipment we usually climb with. Leaving us with nothing but some shoes and a chalk bag.

Across all types of climbing, shoes are the main driver of performance – since almost all the other equipment we use is for safety. Meaning that climbing shoes should be your number one buy when first getting into climbing.

But climbing shoes in general are catered to different types of climbing and can therefore be quite varied in their design. So in this guide we will be zeroing in on one type of climbing shoe in particular - the purpose built bouldering shoe.

 
 

Bouldering shoes are designed with particular traits in mind such as ease of access (i.e. getting the shoe on and off), a more aggressive arch, a tighter fit, and the stickiest of rubber.

Good bouldering shoes can also be worn for roped up rock climbing, however due to their secure fit, they can feel a little tight and may even start to hurt a climber’s feet on long climbs.

All the shoes on this list are fantastic for bouldering and there really isn’t a lot of daylight between their rankings. Some people may prefer a certain brand or a certain style, but one thing is for sure – with any of the shoes below, your bouldering performance can only go up.

If you love reading this review of the best bouldering shoes, then you'll likely love reading some of our other climbing content:

Best for Overall: EVOLV SHAMAN

MATERIALS: Synthetic upper and Trax SAS rubber sole

CLOSURE: Three Velcro straps

DESIGNED FOR: Bouldering, hard sport climbing

PROS: Tight and secure fit, amazing foot performance

CONS: Rubber is a tad soft and can wear out faster than normal

Evolv is one of the big names in climbing and when they make something for a particular style, they do it well. So well in fact that it’s hard to beat them.

The Evolv Shaman is one such shoe, with a great deal of thought and experience having been put into its design. It is a shoe that this author has worn for years – having found that their performance is hard to beat. They are aggressive, great for small nubbins or edges, and excel at steep or overhanging climbs. The soft rubber allows you to feel the rocks more than other shoes do, thereby allowing you to focus on those hard bouldering moves.

While not the most comfortable overall climbing shoe in the world – when it comes to bouldering shoes, these are quite high on the comfort scale. They have a bump in the sole, just past the ball of your foot that supports the toes, along with a soft tongue and three Velcro straps to achieve a snug and supportive fit.

These are a tried and tested pair of shoes that fit well on all foot shapes and can be used for hard sport lead routes too. They perform extremely well both indoors and outdoors and will enable you to climb and send at your grade limit on boulder problems.

They are a very durable pair of shoes. However, like all bouldering shoes, the rubber around the big toe can wear out pretty fast. Nonetheless, the Evolv Shaman are highly recommended for bouldering anywhere.

Best for Performance: LA SPORTIVA SOLUTION

MATERIALS: Leather and microfiber, Vibram XS Grip2

CLOSURE: Single Velcro strap

DESIGNED FOR: Hard climbing

PROS: Extremely precise toe placement, extra heel sensitivity

CONS: Can be too tight for wide feet, expensive

La Sportiva often dominates a list of top picks for climbing shoes – with their incredible range of high-end climbing shoes that are generally not ridiculously priced.

This Italian company was founded in 1928 and since the 1950s have been producing footwear for climbing, alpine sports and mountaineering. The quality materials and thoughtful designs keep them at the top of the game. Not to mention, they have worked with and sponsored professional climbers for many years.

The La Sportiva Solution is regarded as one of the best bouldering shoes out there and very nearly could have topped this list. If you have the right type of foot, these shoes will fit like a glove and allow your toes to stick to the smallest of tiny ledges, whilst your other foot moves into a supporting heel hook with absolute ease.

They have a downturned shape with a stiffer sole and a reinforced heel. They are used by top level climbers all over the world, since they provide a stickiness and support many other shoes simply don’t have.

The (very) small downsides are that there is only one Velcro strap for securing them to your feet, they are quite pricey, and they are not the most comfortable. 

But as evidenced by their popularity amongst the world’s top boulderers, when you need peak performance – the La Sportiva Solution is likely to be the shoe of choice.

Best for Versatility: LA SPORTIVA MIURA VS

MATERIALS: Leather and Dentex upper, Vibram XS Edge sole

CLOSURE: Three Velcro straps

DESIGNED FOR: All types of climbing

PROS: Best edging shoe out there, great for all types of climbing

CONS: Can be a touch aggressive in the arch for some people

You simply cannot go wrong with the La Sportiva Miura VS. While many shoes cater to a specific style of climbing, the Miura is one that’s great on them all, whether it be long steep routes, edges or even crack climbing.

This shoe is a favorite amongst climbers for its ability to get you up that short and sharp boulder problem and also be worn on a long day of big wall trad climbing.

The Velcro model of the Miura (the VS) offers an aggressive and snug fit, with three straps to ensure you get the right fit on your feet. And along with the awesome edging rubber found on the sole, this shoe is a solid performer on the boulder problems. Plus, it is stiffer and more durable than the previous lace up version, so should hold up for years.

As a pure bouldering shoe the performance of the La Sportive Miura VS is up there with the best, yet it has the versatility to be used on all your climbing adventures. It is a classic design that has been on the market for quite some time and with good reason.

Best for Value: FIVE TEN HIANGLE

MATERIALS: Unlined leather, Stealth C4 rubber

CLOSURE: Single Velcro strap

DESIGNED FOR: Bouldering

PROS: Aggressive arch and tight heel, purpose made for bouldering

CONS: Has reported durability issues

Five Ten are another company that has excelled at climbing shoes over the years – and the Five Ten Hiangle is one of their prime examples.

In terms of quality and performance this shoe is close to being on par with more expensive shoes, such as the La Sportiva Solution. But given its lower price point, it is one of the best value shoes on the market.

It’s great on slabs, overhanging rocks, and any indoor boulder problems. The unlined leather, whilst not being the most comfortable, does conform to your feet well after just a few uses. The heel doesn’t have the stiffness or reinforcement that shoes like the La Sportiva Solution do, but that really is the only small issue with them.

If you are looking for a high-performance bouldering shoe but want to save some money in the process, the Five Ten Hiangle is absolutely worth a look. It pretty much ticks all the boxes in the search for a great bouldering shoe.

Best for Outdoors: BUTORA ACRO

MATERIALS: Leather and synthetic, Neo Fuse rubber sole

CLOSURE: Single Velcro strap

DESIGNED FOR: Bouldering

PROS: Comes in both wide and narrow version, very durable

CONS: Lacks some heel support

Some days we climb outdoors, whilst other days indoors. And while a great deal of science has gone into making the indoor experience as close as possible to outdoor, it’s not always the case.

The Butora Acro is a great climbing shoe for both environments, but outdoors is where it tends to excel. This is especially true on crystal granite, slabs, and tiny nubbin ledges.

The shoes themselves are comfortable and support your moves well, maintaining the standard bouldering aggressiveness. They are quite competitively priced compared to some of the other shoes on the market. Plus, they come in both a wide and narrow version – meaning they are perfect for climbers at either end of the width spectrum.

So if you love the outdoors and shun the local gyms, then the Butora Acro could be the shoe to pack next time you head for those remote boulders deep in the forest.

Best for Indoors: LA SPORTIVA SKWAMA

MATERIALS: Synthetic upper and Vibram sole

CLOSURE: Single Velcro strap

DESIGNED FOR: All climbing styles

PROS: Sensitive toes, good for all feet positioning

CONS: Leather upper can stretch over time

Another La Sportiva entry on our list, the La Sportiva Skwama is designed as either a bouldering or climbing shoe – with a nice tight fit for added performance.

They have a single Velcro strap, yet still manage to stay snug on the feet. They can be worn outdoors – and perform almost at the same level as other shoes on this list – however they are a great indoor shoe due to their comfort. Owing to the high-quality design and build that La Sportiva is known for, the Skwama is both comfortable and stiff at the same time. The benefit of this is that it allows you to keep your shoes on while walking between indoor boulder problems. As opposed to ripping them off as soon as you can, which is common practice amongst boulderers when climbing outdoors!

If you are looking for shoes for indoor bouldering, and that you may like to take outdoors from time to time, then the La Sportiva Skwama shoes are likely to be a top pick.

Best for Women: SCARPA VAPOR V

MATERIALS: Micro Suede upper with a reduced tongue volume and Vibram XS Grip2 sole

CLOSURE: Two Velcro straps

DESIGNED FOR: Sport leading and bouldering

PROS: Specifically designed for women’s feet

CONS: They are expensive

Many climbing shoes are unisex, whilst others have distinct male and female versions. And with the Vapor V, Scarpa have built an epic all-purpose climbing shoe specifically designed for women.

Ok, the Scarpa Vapor V isn’t the only climbing shoe aimed specifically at women, but when it comes to bouldering performance, they are certainly at the top of the list.

They are not quite as aggressive with their design as some of other bouldering shoes, but they still maintain a solid arch with an asymmetric profile than performs well on steep and overhanging terrain.

The Vapor V also uses Scarpa’s “bi-tension” rand, which tries to pull power from your toes and transfer it to the rest of the foot, rather than the usual “slingshot” rand that pulls your heel towards your toes and often ends up causing uncomfortable cramping in the toe box. The overall aim is to allow you to drive power through your foot, but with less discomfort in the toes.

The suede upper conforms nicely with the foot, making them very comfortable as well as providing support. Plus, they have a reduced volume inside the shoe to better cater to the female foot shape. Of course, with a suede upper you can expect a bit of stretching over time, so we suggest you size accordingly.

With cool green and pink coloring, the Scarpa Vapor V are a perfect choice for women who love to climb and boulder.

Best on a Budget: MAD ROCK FLASH

MATERIALS: Leather and synthetic upper, Science Friction 3.0 sole

CLOSURE: Two Velcro straps

DESIGNED FOR: Bouldering

PROS: Half the price of other shoes

CONS: Can stretch over time

Mad Rock have been making crash pads and shoes aimed at bouldering for years. And given their time in the game, they have some quality shoes in their range.

The Mad Rock Flash is one such shoe, labelled as a general bouldering shoe and available at a lower price point than much of the competition. They have a less aggressive arch than some, but the two Velcro straps help keep the foot snug and supported.

Fortunately, the quality or performance gap isn’t as large as the pricing gap might suggest, making these shoes a great choice for beginners or even climbing shops looking to purchase rental shoes.

These shoes perform very well in a variety of conditions. And given that they sell for half the price of some of the top models, beginner or budget conscious climbers might not need to look any further than the Mad Rock Flash.

BUYING ADVICE FOR BOULDERING SHOES

Climbing experience and style

Not all climbing shoes are designed to be equal. Some are designed as all-rounders, some for performance, and some for comfort, so you need to match your shoe with your desired climbing style first and foremost. Below we touch on a few of the climbing styles that have special things to consider.

BEGINNERS: If you are a beginner, an “all-rounder” shoe is the only thing you should consider buying. These will allow you to climb all styles and all rock types – perfect for when you are learning what types of climbing you are most into. Plus, since outdoor climbing does wear down shoes, particularly the rubber around the big toe – it’s best to use a general shoe until your footwork becomes more effective.

BOULDERING: Bouldering requires high performance at reduced comfort. When bouldering, you spend shorter periods on the rock and can remove your shoes in between – meaning comfort is not such an important consideration.

Plus, bouldering moves are often challenging and so performance is key. For this reason, bouldering shoes also tend to have a reinforced and supported heel for heel hooking on overhanging rocks.

Closure system

When we climb a long route, we are on the rock for a longer duration and our gear might stay in place for the entire time. Bouldering problems on the other hand are much quicker, and if you have very tight shoes, you will appreciate quick release closures for loosening or removing your shoes in between your attempts at the bouldering problem.

VELCRO STRAPS: Velcro is extremely popular for its ease of use – you’ll be getting your shoes on and off much more quickly than if you had laces! You might not be able to “fine tune” the fit as well as you can with laces, but it’s not too far off – especially with two or three Velcro straps helping to dial in the right fit.

SLIPPER: Slipper type shoes use elastic on the sides. Their advantage it that you can put them on and/or remove them very quickly. Their disadvantage is that they generally provide a less secure fit.

LACES: Laces offer a more nuanced fit to your foot with more options to tighten or loosen certain points, thereby helping to obtain a degree of comfort with performance. They take longer to put on and take off however, which isn’t a problem on long all-day climbs, but may be an inconvenience if you are bouldering.

Materials

RUBBER: There are many types of rubber on the market and brands often use different types for different shoes. An amazing amount of research has gone into these rubbers to ensure they do what they are supposed to – grip the rock.

Don’t be blinded by the names and numbers associated, look more at how thick the rubber is (thicker means it takes longer to wear down) and how ‘sticky’ or soft the rubber is. Rubber soles maintain a balance between performance and durability, the softer they are the quicker they wear out.

Note that you can always re-sole shoes too if they wear out quicker than you anticipate, but resoling will come with reduced performance.

Sizing and fitting your shoes

SIZING: This is one of the hardest things to figure out, especially when you are a new climber. Ideally, your big toe needs to be touching the end of your shoe, but you don’t want it scrunched up to the point of major discomfort. Climbers know this and will factor it into their size selection, however new climbers often opt for a half or full size too big – since initially the shoe will feel more comfortable. Of course, as their climbing progresses and they need to use their feet more, they will find their performance suffers as a result of the larger shoe.

BRAND SIZING: Also, not all brands have the same sizing. Some are the same as street shoes whilst others are smaller, forcing your feet to contort.

ONLINE RETURNS: It’s a difficult ask to buy online without trying them on first, however both Amazon and REI offer returns, provided you haven’t taken them outside for a climb.

MORE INFORMATION

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