Best Climbing Harnesses of 2023

JUMP TO: PETZL SAMA / MAMMUT OPHIR 4 SLIDE / EDELRID JAYNE III / PETZL OUISTITI / BLACK DIAMOND SOLUTION / BLACK DIAMOND BIG GUN / PETZL SITTA / BLACK DIAMOND MOMENTUM / BUYING ADVICE

Author: Tim Severino

The Short Version

The Long Version

The climbing harness is widely regarded as the most important piece of equipment when it comes to rock climbing. You can fall and it will save you. You can use it to support your climbing partner. And you can spin upside down and it will keep your vital gear attached.

If done right the climbing harness is a comfortable, functional and durable piece of equipment that literally provides the center piece for you and your climbing partner’s safety needs.

The belay loops – front and back – enable you to secure yourself to a wide range of objects such as climbing bolts, anchors, trees, rocks, or anything solid enough to support you. They also help keep your partner safe, by allowing you to belay them as they climb.

The gear loops hold all your important climbing equipment for immediate use: carabiners, quick draws, belay devices, chalk bags, slings, and accessory cord.

 
 

Climbing harnesses have come a long way since they were first seen on a rock wall. In the early days a bit of old webbing or rope was used in a makeshift way. But these days the top brands are turning out some outstanding equipment with decades of thought, experience and feedback going into their evolving designs.

Today’s harnesses are strong, lightweight, and comfortable. In fact you should be able to wear them all day long without them becoming a hindrance.

So keep reading to see our list of the best climbing harnesses on the market!

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Need To Know What To Look Out For?

Climbing harnesses are a piece of technical equipment – and critical to your safety when rock climbing. If you aren’t sure what to look out for when shopping for one, be sure to check out our buying advice at the bottom of the article.

Best Overall: PETZL SAMA

COMFORT: Very comfortable both standing and hanging

VERSATILITY: Very high

PRICE: $$

PROS: Four gear loops in a good arrangement front and back, very versatile for different types of climbing

CONS: Waist and leg size can’t be extended too far, making it difficult to use with many layers of clothing in very cold or icy conditions

PETZL are one of the world’s best manufacturers of climbing equipment. Their hardware is known for its very high quality and everything is made to German standards.

Although they have a wide range of harnesses, the PEZTL Sama is their ‘universal harness’. This means it’s great at sport, trad, or gym climbing. 

Gear loops are spaced evenly – with two front and two back – allowing a large amount to be carried and still have everything accessible while you climb.

The waist has comfortable padding that helps when taking weight as a belayer or when taking a fall and hanging in it afterwards. Nonetheless the padding is thin enough to ensure you maintain mobility and are unhindered in your climbing. The back leg straps are sturdy elastic, thereby keeping the leg loops comfortably where you need them. All in all this adds up to a harness you can wear all day long without discomfort.

It comes in gray and dark gray and is comfortable for both men and women. Although it is a little heavier than other harnesses, the weight is in its comfort and durability; it will last you years.

Given the relatively low price point, quality construction, and high level of comfort, we believe the PETZL Sama is the best all-round harness on the market today.

Best for Beginners: MAMMUT OPHIR 4 SLIDE

COMFORT: Very comfortable standing, comfortable hanging

VERSATILITY: Very high

PRICE: $$

PROS: Four gear loops spaced apart, fully adjustable leg loops, plastic protection on tie in

CONS: Leg elastic can stretch, reducing comfort

The Mammut Ophir 4 Slide is a versatile harness aimed at beginners. It has a nice amount of padding so is very comfortable while standing, however it tends to not be quite as comfortable when falling or hanging due to the stretchy leg straps than can move around.

This harness is aimed at beginners as an all-round and price-sensitive piece of equipment. You can use it for gym climbing, sport leading, and even move into traditional leading and have it stand up to the challenge. The gear loops allow loads of equipment to be carried if necessary but don’t get in the way when not being used.

As it’s aimed at beginners, the leg loops are adjustable – there is an indicator on the stitching of the waist loop so you know how far to pull it through to be safe. It also has a plastic coating on the tie in loops to protect it from rope and carabiner wear and tear.

Durable and fully adjustable, the Mammut Ophir 4 Slide climbing harness is great for beginners both in and outdoors.

Best for Women: EDELRID JAYNE III

COMFORT: Very comfortable hanging, comfortable standing

VERSATILITY: Very high

PRICE: $$

PROS: Tailored shape of leg loops for women’s bodies, padding around the waist, four gear loops, and plastic reinforced bottom tie in

CONS: No rear haul loop

Women are such a large percentage of all climbers, it’s no surprise that there are some quality harnesses aimed at them. While it’s true that unisex or men’s harnesses are preferred by many women – many opt for a design that is more tailored to their bodies.

Most women’s harnesses are either too lightweight and lack padding (which can be great for gear carriage but not that comfortable) while others have too much padding, making them bulky.

However, the Edelrid Jayne III manages to balance comfort and freedom of movement surprisingly well. It’s very versatile and is comfortable enough to use on long climbing routes or all-day adventures.

It has fully adjustable legs loops and an adjustable waist. Plus, the load bearing webbing part of the waist can move within the padding. This ensures that when you are climbing in the cold and wearing more layers you can keep the belay loop in front of you.

While many unisex harnesses can be comfortably used by women, the Edelrid Jayne III is specifically designed for women and a great buy for the dedicated female climber.

Best for Kids: PETZL OUISTITI

COMFORT: Very comfortable hanging and standing

VERSATILITY: Limited

PRICE: $$

PROS: All body harness with chest rig for extra safety, rear high haul loop

CONS: Lack of gear loops

Kids are the future – and many parents who climb love to teach their kids the ropes and have them become climbers as they grow. But of course, every parent is going to want their kid to be safe whilst learning their first moves on the wall.

Unfortunately, most harnesses are specifically designed for adults. Younger children tend to have less developed hips and so lack some of the shape required to hold an adult harness firmly onto the waist – and stop the wearer falling out if flipping upside down!

Fortunately, the PETZL Ouistiti solves this issue with a fully integrated chest harness, that goes over the shoulder for the most secure fit your child could ever have. 

The harness has only two gear loops, but that really isn’t too much of a problem (unless they are following Mum or Dad on a long trad climb!). Plus, there is a high rear haul loop that can be attached to numerous other things (like a flying fox) or allows Dad to pick their kids up by the harness and swing them around.

For kids starting out, nothing beats a full body harness, and PETZL have brought their quality and ingenuity to the Ouistiti. It is the ideal harness for younger children, giving parents peace of mind that their kids won’t ever be able to fall out of it!

Best for Sport Climbing: BLACK DIAMOND SOLUTION

COMFORT: Very comfortable standing and hanging

VERSATILITY: Medium

PRICE: $$

PROS: Breathable quick drying materials, four gear loops

CONS: No haulage loop, no adjustable leg loops

Like PETZL, Black Diamond is known for its large array of functional and durable climbing equipment, and their range of harnesses is no different.

Not only is their range of harnesses larger than many other brands, but they often also have gender-specific and technical versions of the same harness. And when it comes to sport climbing harnesses – the Solution is one of the best there is. It is available in men’s and women’s versions, special edition “Alex Honnold” (men’s) and “Babsi Zangrel” (women’s) versions, as well as a “Guide” version (also men’s and women’s).

Sport climbing requires a comfortable and durable harness that will hold all your quick draws close at hand , and the Black Diamond Solution does that in spades. While the gear loops could be considered a little on the small side, they do hold your quick draws within reach – so you can easily pick them up and clip into the bolt without even having to look down.

The very comfortable waist is made from separate strands designed to move with your body and provide the maximum possible comfort when taking a fall. It’s also lightweight for its price point, making it a great sport climbing harness when you are pushing your grades and need everything lining up in your favor. One potential downside is the lack of any ice clippers or adjustable leg loops, however as most sport climbers stick to rocks this isn’t really a problem.

For any level of sport climbing, both indoors and out, the Black Diamond Solution is a hard one not to put in the lead.

Best for Trad Climbing: BLACK DIAMOND BIG GUN

COMFORT: Extremely comfortable standing and hanging

VERSATILITY: Extremely versatile

PRICE: $$$

PROS: 5 gear loops, 2 belay loops, can be used for anything

CONS: Heavier than most other harnesses

Are you a climber that just likes to carry loads of gear on the crag? Do you like big wall multi-pitch climbing or the odd bit of mountaineering? Are you a climbing instructor or guide that requires extra equipment to be carried most of the time?

If you answered yes to any of these questions, then the Black Diamond Big Gun is the harness for you.

Intentionally made bigger to carry more equipment, the Big Gun uses thermoformed foam through the larger waist belt – to make it as comfortable as possible and really distribute that load when hanging or recovering from a fall. The larger gear loops and long rear loop make it easy to carry a full trad rack, quick draws, anchor materials, and anything else you might need on the climb. Plus it has two belay loops and a rear haul loop, giving you options for making yourself safe and belaying others on the wall.

Due to its weight, it can’t compare with a harness like the Black Diamond Solution or PETZL Sitta when it comes to straight up gym or outdoor sport climbing. But there is so much more to do other than just sport and this harness gives you the ability to go further with your climbing experiences.

The Black Diamond Big Gun is also a favorite amongst many instructors, due to its ability to comfortably carry loads of gear when teaching students lead or multi-pitch climbing.

If you are a multi-talented climber who likes to mix it up, or you want a harness that can take everything plus some, then the Black Diamond Big Gun is likely to be the harness for you.

Best for Ultralight: PETZL SITTA

COMFORT: Very comfortable standing, comfortable hanging

VERSATILITY: Medium

PRICE: $$$$

PROS: Incredibly lightweight, high quality materials, innovative design, four gear loops

CONS: Very expensive

The PETZL Sitta is as lightweight as they come. So for the climber who is pushing their grades constantly or the pro who climbs fast and light every day – this is a harness designed for you.

The waist doesn’t use foam padding for comfort and load distribution. Instead, it uses a PETZL designed innovation of super light spectra cord strands through the waistbelt and leg loops. This provides a harness that is much lighter than any other, whilst still retaining a sufficient level of durability.

Due to the innovative design and lack of foam, climbing in the PETZL Sitta feels like you are hardly wearing a harness at all – making you very mobile on the crag!

The gear loops are large, and the front ones have a divider on them to help organize those quick draws and hold them in place for an easy no-look clip on every bolt. You can also carry a full trad rack in the rear loops making it a harness suitable for almost all types of outdoor climbing. It even has ice clippers too.

This high-end ultralight and versatile harness is the top pick for most pro climbers and any other climber that takes their sport seriously.

Best on a Budget: BLACK DIAMOND MOMENTUM

COMFORT: Comfortable both hanging and standing

VERSATILITY: Medium

PRICE: $

PROS: Four gear loops, comfortable padded waist

CONS: A little bulky

The Black Diamond Momentum is a no frills, adjustable harness for those on a budget. Whilst a high-end ultralight harness might offer small advantages, at the end of the day it’s not the equipment that improves your ability, but rather the determination you put in.

Many climbing shops or schools around the world use this harness as a mainstay for hire or students to use in courses, due its combination of price, durability, and adjustability.

This harness is a decent all-round one, but better for gym, top rope, or sport climbing than all day multi-pitch trad. The padding can feel a tad bulky compared to other harnesses, but for those wanting Black Diamond quality at an affordable price – this harness is bang on.

BUYING ADVICE FOR CLIMBING HARNESSES

Experience level

BEGINNERS: For a beginner – you want something relatively simple, with four gear loops and a comfortable waist. You won’t need to carry any significant amount of gear when starting out in the gym or learning top rope outdoors. And once you progress to sport climbing, even then you won’t need to carry large loads of equipment.

IMPROVERS: If you are a competent climber who is progressing in the sport, then versatility and durability are added considerations. If you plan to eventually start trad climbing, then when you are looking to replace that tiring old harness you might want to get one with capacity for a trad rack (i.e. 4+ gear loops). Or if you plan to stick to sport climbing and push grades, then perhaps a lightweight harness that offers more freedom of movement is the way to go.

EXPERIENCED: If you are a big wall climber, a pro, guide, or instructor, then even more aspects come into consideration — including weight, adjustability, gear loops, ice clipper slots, and more. But by this stage you probably know what your requirements are for the style of climbing you tackle most!

Safety and durability

BRAND: It must be said, you should only buy a harness from a well-known brand as this is a piece of safety equipment first and foremost. All of the brands mentioned in this article are reputable and manufacture high quality climbing gear.

SAFETY RATINGS: Ensure there is a safety label with CE 0082 and/or UIAA-105 and/or EN-12277, usually on the inside of the waist. These are the safety codes for rated harnesses in North America and Europe.

DURABILITY: Due to the safety aspect, harnesses manufactured by reputable brands will generally be quite durable. If you climb primarily in gyms and perhaps outdoors occasionally, then durability may not be an important consideration and you might want to prioritize light weight or comfort over durability. On the other hand, if you are climbing outside multiple times a week, the ability for all aspects of your harness to withstand the elements and stay functioning is of more importance.

 
 

Comfort

COMFORT: Depending on the type of climbing you do, comfort may play a large part in your selection. The longer you will be hanging in a harness – generally the more comfortable you want it to be. However, comfort can come at the expense of weight and mobility – so in most cases you need to weigh up what is more important to you. Be a little wary if a review mentions a harness cutting into you or that it has uncomfortable ‘spots’.

VERSATILITY: The more versatile the harness – the more you can use it for. Some are designed for one type of climbing only, while others take more of an all-round approach. Most beginner harnesses are inherently versatile, while more niche harnesses sometimes are not.

Equipment carrying

Outside of gym and top rope climbing, you will need to carry equipment. This can range from a couple of carabiners and some anchor materials, through to a full-blown trad rack.

GEAR LOOPS: Most harnesses will come with four gear loops, distributed on either side of the waist belt. Some, like the Black Diamond Big Gun, have five gear loops for carrying large loads. Whilst others like the PETZL Ouistiti (for kids) have only two gear loops.

Make sure your potential harness can actually carry what you will need on the crag. For gym, top rope, or sport climbing having two gear loops may be sufficient. But for trad climbing, you will need at least four. Some – like the PETZL Sitta – also have a divider in the center of the loop, which can help keep equipment organized and in place for when it is needed.

ICE CLIPPER SLOTS: Ice clipper slots are used for attaching an ice clipper, that can then be used for carrying tools and/or screws when ice climbing. The ice clipper slots are often found on the side of the waistbelt, usually between the gear loops. You only require them for ice climbing, but several harnesses include them just in case. They are generally used for carrying larger numbers of screws; if you occasionally need to carry a couple of ice screws, then you can always hook them onto your regular gear loops.

MORE INFORMATION

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