The Rockwall Trail Hiking Guide for 2023
JUMP TO: PROS & CONS | ITINERARIES | TRAIL DESCRIPTION | WHEN TO GO | CAMPSITES | NAVIGATION | WATER | WILDLIFE | TRAILHEAD SERVICES | WHAT TO PACK
Author: Steve Edgerton | Photos: Allison Edgerton | Updated: Feb 15, 2023
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The Rockwall Trail is among the most iconic backcountry trips in the Canadian Rockies. Located in Kootenay National Park in British Columbia, this epic trail climbs three alpine passes, winding through sprawling, wildflower-laden meadows, and below enormous hanging glaciers.
The trail takes its name from an imposing limestone cliff that stretches a full kilometer skyward — The Rockwall.
With 11,500 ft (3,500 m) of cumulative elevation gain and loss, The Rockwall is more demanding than its distance would suggest. Its 34 miles (54 km) is often spread over four to five days, but few would complain about spending more time out on this epic, endlessly beautiful adventure in the heart of the Rockies.
PROS
Hiking through the inspiring peaks and glaciers of Kootenay National Park.
Full days spent traversing lush subalpine meadows
Always scenic, minimal time trudging through viewless forest
CONS
Tent pads offer little privacy
Most days include steep, unrelenting climbs
Campsites are incredibly hard to book during peak season
ITINERARIES
The Rockwall is a point-to-point hike. It can be completed in either direction, but many hikers prefer to start from the north, at Paint Pots trailhead, and finish at Floe Lake trailhead to the south. This makes for a more gradual climb up Numa Pass—the highest and most gruelling climb on the trail.
We outline a north to south itinerary here, but starting from Floe Lake is still excellent, especially if you’d like to knock out Numa Pass in the first day or two with fresh legs.
The Floe Lake and Paint Pots trailheads are 7 miles (11 km) apart along Highway 93. This means that you need to arrange a shuttle between your hiking party or with a friend before you begin. It is also common practice for hikers to hitch a ride from the parking lot or the highway.
Whatever you choose to do, we recommend leaving your car at the trailhead you will finish at for one less thing to worry about after 3-5 days out on the trail.
For those short on time, alternative itineraries are possible. Floe Lake and Helmet Falls are both more than worthy destinations for a quick one-night trip. There are also trails that follow Numa and Tumbling Creeks back down to Highway 93.
A great option is a three-day abridged loop of the northern Rockwall. Start at the Paint Pots, stay at Helmet Falls and Tumbling Creek, and then head down Tumbling Creek Trail back to the Paint Pots trailhead.
You get to take in the soaring Helmet Falls and the grandeur of the Rockwall Pass, with the added bonus of starting and ending at the same trailhead, avoiding the need for a shuttle. It still makes for an unforgettable trip, but if you get the chance to complete the Rockwall in its entirety, you should always take it.
THE ROCKWALL TRAIL
LENGTH: 34 miles / 54 km
DURATION: 3-5 days
TYPE: Point-to-Point
START: Paint Pots Trailhead
FINISH: Floe Lake Trailhead
BEST TIME: Mid-July to late-September
Begin the Rockwall from the Paint Pots trailhead along Highway 93. The first 1.2 miles (2 km) of the trail is a popular day hike that leads to the Paint Pots—bright pools of mineral deposits formed by an accumulation of iron oxide that rises from cold mineral springs below ground. It makes for a fascinating, orange-red hued landscape. The region’s Indigenous Ktunaxa people have utilized the deposits for centuries to make red ochre paint, hence their name.
Beyond the Paint Pots, traffic from day hikers quickly thins out as the trail moves through mixed coniferous forest, ascending gently uphill for 3.6 miles (5.8 km) to the Helmet-Ochre Junction Campground. It sits alongside Helmet Creek, and makes a good spot for lunch, but most hikers continue for another 5.2 miles (8.4 km) to spend the first night of the trail at Helmet Falls.
The Helmet Falls campground is somewhat cramped, with most tent pads clustered together with little separation. The epic surroundings make this inconsequential though. You will be encircled by towering, glaciated peaks and just downstream from Helmets Falls, one of the tallest waterfalls in all of Canada.
After Helmet Falls, there is a long climb up to Rockwall Pass. The grade remains moderate but relentless. The hike through the pass is a highlight of the trail. You will travel for hours through subalpine meadows and beside the sheer limestone face of the Rockwall, with unobstructed views of Tumbling Pass beckoning you forward.
A steep descent down from the Rockwall Pass will get you to Tumbling Creek, after 7.6 miles (12.3 km) and 1640 ft (500 m) of climbing from Helmet Falls. The tent pads are a little more forested and private here and the steady, rocky flow of Tumbling Creek will quicky lull you to sleep.
The next day begins again with steep terrain. Leaving the campground, cross a bridge over Tumbling Creek before reaching a junction. Left follows Tumbling Creek back down to the Paint Pots trailhead. Go right to resume the full Rockwall Trail, beginning a long, sustained climb up to Tumbling Pass. The pass traverses gorgeous, larch-filled subalpine meadows. Endless views of Tumbling Peak, Tumbling Glacier and Mt. Gray greet you to the west.
Beyond Tumbling Pass the trail descends to Numa Creek Campground, 4.4 miles (7.9 km) from Tumbling Creek Campground. The constant climbing and descending make this day feel long, belying the short distance covered. Many hikers spend a night here before taking on Numa Pass, the highest point along the Rockwall.
Departing the Numa Creek basin, the trail climbs 2,722 ft (830 m) over 4.3 miles (7 km) to reach Numa Pass. Views of Floe Lake and Floe Peak immediately make the hard hiking more than worthwhile. Descend Numa Pass for 1.2 miles (2 km) to reach Floe Lake Campground.
Bask in the trail’s glory at Floe Lake knowing the hardest work is behind you. If weather permits, consider a quick dip in the lake for the most picturesque, refreshing, and coldest swim of your life!
The last 6.5 miles (10.5 km) of the trail follow Floe Creek downhill through a young mixed forest, the regrowth of a devasting wildfire that scorched these valleys in 2003. Scenic views of Banff’s Ball Range lie ahead for much of the hike. Cross a bridge over Vermilion River before arriving at the Floe Lake trailhead.
WHEN TO GO
With three mountain passes towering well over 6,500 ft (2,000 m) in elevation, heavy snowpack can persist on the Rockwall at least until mid-July.
That means that the Rockwall is best attempted from mid-July to late-September. But depending on fall precipitation, the trail can remain clear until mid-October. Night temperatures will be sub-zero, but this October is peak larch season, and the changing colors in the trail’s subalpine passes make the Rockwall even more extraordinary
CAMPSITES
There are five designated campsites on the Rockwall. The most popular itinerary has hikers skipping Helmet-Ochre Junction and staying at Helmet Falls, Tumbling Creek, Numa Creek, and Floe Lake.
The campsites are all pleasant, but they can feel busy—the Rockwall is one of the most coveted multi-day trips in the area. All campgrounds have bear lockers, picnic tables, outhouses, and good access to fresh, flowing water. Tent pads are claimed quick, so it may be worth arriving earlier than you might otherwise to secure a good spot.
From north to south, the campgrounds—and distances between them—are:
Paint Pots Trailhead to Helmet-Ochre Junction: 5.8 km
Helmet-Ochre Junction to Helmet Falls 8.4 km
Helmet Falls to Tumbling Creek: 12.3 km
Tumbling Creek to Numa Creek: 7.9 km
Numa Creek to Floe Lake: 9.2 km
Floe Lake to Floe Lake Trailhead: 10.5 km
The Rockwall Trail is in Kootenay National Park. You need to use the Parks Canada Online Reservation Service to secure permits for the dates and campgrounds you intend to stay at on the trail.
The trail is incredibly popular with hikers completing the entire Rockwall, thru-hikers on the Great Divide Trail, and others who come to spend only a night at Floe Lake or Helmet Falls. Getting the exact dates you want can be difficult and frustrating, so it helps to have some flexibility in your schedule. You should also be ready to book right when permits open for the summer in January.
NAVIGATION
MAPS: The best option for navigation on the Rockwall trail is a 1:50,000 scale topographic map from The Adventure Map. You may be able to find it in some outdoor stores in Banff, but we recommend ordering it online in advance of your trip.
WATER
WATER ACCESS: Like most hikes in the Rockies, water access along the Rockwall is plentiful. All campgrounds sit beside creeks. Glacial tarns and streams also flow throughout the mountain passes on the trail.
WATER TREATMENT: Water runs clean and clear throughout most of the Rockwall. We relied on our Katadyn BeFree water filter. The Sawyer Squeeze, iodine tablets, or the SteriPEN Adventurer Opti are other easy and lightweight treatment options that would work well.
The only thing to be mindful of is water from the high passes. It is often glacial runoff and many of the creeks and tarns are an opaque blue, turbid with silt. It is drinkable, but it may clog up your filter and is typically too gritty to be enjoyed unfiltered. However, with at least two liters of water capacity it is easy enough to simply avoid these sources and rely on pristine creeks and rivers further downstream.
WILDLIFE
BEAR SAFETY: Grizzly and black bears live throughout Kootenay National Park. Making noise, especially when near creeks and in dense forest, will help you avoid surprising any unassuming bears. Human voices are far more effective than bear bell as a deterrent. Every member of your party should also carry a canister of bear spray and know how to use it safely.
All five campgrounds feature bear lockers, making it easy and stress-free to safely store all your food and other scented items.
OTHER WILDLIFE: You may see a diversity of wildlife along the Rockwall, including elk, wolves, cougars, and marmots. Dangerous encounters are rare and unlikely, but always be aware and maintain a respectful distance of any wildlife you do meet along the trail.
TRAILHEAD SERVICES
Paint Pots Trailhead
Other than a couple of outhouses, the Paint Pots trailhead has no services. It is located along Highway 93, between Radium to the south and Castle Junction to the north. If you are looking for an early start, you can camp at Marble Canyon, an unserviced frontcountry campground just five minutes up the highway.
Castle Junction
Castle Junction is located at the intersection of Highway 1 and Highway 93 South, about 13 miles (21 km) north of the Paint Pots trailhead. There are a few accommodation options here, along with a gas station and a general store.
Banff
Out of country visitors coming to hike their Rockwall will likely be coming from Calgary and driving through Banff, 20 miles (32 km) east of Castle Junction and a 45-minute drive away from the Paint Pots.
Surrounded by iconic peaks, including Mt. Rundle, Cascade Mountain, and Sulphur Mountain, Banff offers the perfect introduction to the Canadian Rockies and the adventures that await you. Several grocery stores and dozens of outdoor retailers make it the logical place to finish gearing up before the Rockwall.
Radium
Located 52 miles (84 km) south of the Paint Pots trailhead, Radium is a sleepy resort town that blooms to life every summer. If you have the time, find some post-hike bliss with a stop at the Radium Hot Springs, just north of town. You will not regret it!
WHAT TO PACK
The Rockwall trail is a hot-ticket item and reserving permits during its short hiking season has become challenging. Unfortunately, some hikers have resorted to taking their chances and showing up without permits, leading to overcrowded campgrounds. At Helmet Falls, no vacant tent pads remained by the time we arrived. We had to find a small clearing in the forest for the night, and several other groups had to do the same.
Do not try to camp without the correct permits. Be sure that you bring a printed copy with your reservation details, kept in a waterproof Ziploc bag. There are warden cabins along the trail, and as foot traffic increases, they will be checking permits more regularly. Consequences for camping without permits are serious—they may include court appearances and fines up to $25,000 CAD.
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